Monday 21 January 2019

Veggie burgers: A first attempt

So I'm a vegetarian. Have been for all my life. Also, I like to eat burgers. Not hamburgers, obviously, but veggie burgers. These come in all shapes and sizes: travelling through the USA I was surprised at how inventive and tasty some of these burgers can be; sweet potato burgers, bean burgers, but also soy burgers with nice spice or texture mixes added. In The Netherlands, the amount of veggie burgers on offer is growing steadily; if you're lucky, you'll get one from the 'Vegetarian Butcher', a big meat-replacement producer. If you're even luckier, you'll get a homemade burger.
Now I don't really eat shop-bought veggie burgers at home, because burgers aren't really healthy and the few evenings I spend at home during a week I actually want to eat something that's good for me. Lots of veggies. Lots of protein. Not a lot of fat or carbs.
But wait a minute. Doesn't the term 'veggie burger' actually tell you these are made of vegetables? And if you leave out the fries and the fatty sauces, add in a salade, isn't that actually a pretty decent meal? Am I now just deluding myself because I smell a new project coming and want to dive straight into it? All true!

So I've decided I'm going to try and make some veggie burgers myself. From scratch. I'll get a meat eater to join me every time I make one for dinner, just so I can get the opinion of someone who hasn't been that used to eating veggie burgers. I'll make a little project out of this, no idea how long this will be, but we'll see.
I made my first burgers yesterday evening. I have a cookbook called The Fat Vegetarian in Dutch, not because you get fat (at least I hope so) but because it has over 2,000 vegetarian recipes. It's by American food journalist Mark Bittman, the English title is a pretty boring How to Cook Everything Vegetarian (you probably don't sell many books in the USA if you put the word 'fat' on the cover). Mark covers all kinds vegetarian burgers and burger-like recipes; meatballs, meatloaves, schnitzels, whatever you want (also a ton of other recipes, as you probably wouldn't fill a cookbook with 2,000 veggie burger recipes). The only downside to this cookbook is that it has hardly any pictures. Also, it's pretty heavy. On the upside, it has a reading ribbon, which is one of my favourite things in the world.

Anyway, I decided to start simple, with the 'simplest pulse burger' (I'm translating back from Dutch here, so it may well be called differently in English). The recipe is supposed to cover 4 people, but we were hungry so we had two burgers each. I'll share the recipe with you here, for anyone crazy enough to follow me on my veggie burger journey.

Ingredients:
- 250 cooked beans, or a 400 g can, drained. Can be any type of bean: black, red, kidney, or even chickpeas, lentils, whatever you want. I used a can of kidney beans.
- 1 onion, quartered
- 40 g oats (not instant)
- spices: I used pepper, chili pepper, ground garlic and paprika
- 1 egg
Mark tells us to add extra liquid if we need it, but I didn't.

You need a food processor to make this. Basically dump all the ingredients in the food processor and pulse a couple of times until you have some sort of a mixture. Don't make it too smooth, Mark tells us. I probably made it a bit too smooth. Leave to settle for a while.
With wet hands, shape 4 - 6 burgers out of the mixture. Leave to settle again.
Pour some oil in a frying pan and let it heat for about 1 minute. Put the burgers into the pan and heat for about 5 minutes on each side. Serve any way you like.

Now, doesn't that sound simple? Easy breezy!
Just a couple of things:
- oats? What am I, a horse? Also; oats are corse and grainy, what are they going to make my burger taste like?
- why can't my mixture be smooth? What's it going to do?
- wet hands? Really?
- how is this wet mess of things ever going to resemble a burger?
- how is letting things settle going to change anything?
- how is this wet mess of things with chunks of onion and egg ever going to be tasty?

But lo and behold. It actually worked out fine.
The mixture pre-settlement. Do I spot an oat?
So it does look a bit like a weird mess at first. But if you let it settle for a while, the oats seem to soak up some of the moisture, and also the egg does some sort of binding magic. No idea what happens, but the mixture felt pretty nice and consistent. Almost like how I imagine minced meat to feel (not that I'd ever thought about that before).
The 'shape with wet hands' works like a charm, too. The burgers don't stick to your hands but do stick to themselves. Neat!

The burgers a-baking.
Then when you bake them, you should actually turn the heat up pretty high, and add lots of oil. To someone used to baking burgers this probably sounds pretty logical, but for me it was one of the first times, so my burgers became a bit dry as I had to fry them for longer to get them to brown. Also, a couple fell apart upon turning, probably because they hadn't browned/bonded enough on the bottom. But they came out pretty well.

I like big burgers and I cannot lie...

Okay, so the taste was not super. It was fine, but somewhat lacking in taste. You couldn't taste the onion that much, nor the oats at all (luckily). Will have to add higher amount of spices next time to get some flavour. Because they were pretty dry, we added a pretty big amount of chili sauce to get some sort of taste out of them, and also add some moisture. Funnily enough, the meat eater enjoyed the taste of the plain burger more than I did. The texture was good, again a bit dry, but not unpleasant. All in all, a pretty good first attempt, I would say!

So this was my first try; it's also one of the easiest burgers in the book. I may have another go with a different type of pulse, or I may upgrade to a whole other kind of burger altogether. Mark lists loads more options, and beside him there must be loads of other veggie burger recipes out there. I'll keep you posted!

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